With people packed wall-to-wall at The Skylight during the “Bowl of ‘Zole Festival” in Denver on March 20th, a strong argument could be made that pozole should be the official dish of Colorado.

From vegan options to blancos, negros, and verdes, there were bubbling cauldrons of hot broth every few feet–ensuring there would be no shortage of this ultimate comfort food.

When you add in the unlimited tastings of mezcal from producers like Cuentacuentos and Volans, it quickly became apparent that this wasn’t merely just another food fest; this was a celebration. And I’m glad to report that after trying samples from a dozen different restaurants, the quality of pozole that was offered was more than deserving of a blow-out bash.

To honor these chefs and their incredible offerings, I’ve put together a list of the best bowls of ‘zole and where you can get them.

 

The Food—

“Pozole Negro” from Tacos Tequila Whiskey–

The Pozole Negro from Tacos Tequila Whiskey (TTW) is easily the best pozole I’ve ever eaten in my life; this is not hyperbole. With a slightly thicker broth, TTW’s bowl combines the flavors of a rich mole negro with those you’d find in a mild-heat Texas red chili. The beef was incredibly tender and had a depth of flavor that was unmatched, while the hominy provided a great textural balance. To be honest, I wouldn’t be surprised if this had been simmering for two or three days. Please, if you have the ability to make it out to TTW, I implore you to take the trip … yesterday.

“Pozole Blanco” from Cencalli Taqueria—

The Pozole Blanco from Cencalli Taqueria is a masterpiece. Where most blanco-style pozoles have a lighter flavor profile, Cencalli went in the opposite direction. In fact, when it comes to the levels of nuanced flavors found in this blanco, the only other kind of soup I could compare it to would be a (Mexican) pho. Literally every spoonful brought forward another tasty element that wasn’t there before. Porky-richness for days in a light broth that never felt heavy or greasy. After multiple samples, I vowed to hunt this pozole down when fall arrives this year for sure.

“Pozole Verde” from Teocalli Cocina—

For the first time in my life, I had a dish that was the exact interpretation of what the color green would taste like. The cubes of pork were tender and perfectly balanced by the acidity brought about by the addition of tomatillos. Though it’s pretty obvious that the incorporation of cilantro helped boost the floral notes in the soup, the chefs at Teocalli Cocina helped accentuate this by adding jalapeños whose heat had been completely removed. Yes, there is a fine line between being a rich verde and a bowl of lawn clippings, but I promise this pozole never treads near it.

“Loca’s Black Powder Pozole With Smoked Brisket” from Carne—

I love it when a restaurant takes a classic and turns it on its head; Carne has done this very thing with their take on pozole. In reality, the only element that resembles a traditional pozole is the fact that it includes hominy … that’s it. The broth tastes like the best beef enchilada sauce you’ve ever had, and the smoke on the über-tender beef comes shining through—giving you something a little unexpected. And finally, I fully believe the black powder used is akin to that found in explosives; this dish has some punch. If you are one who is not faint of heart and looking for something new, this soup is right up your alley.

“Traditional Pozole” from Don Zorros Molino—

For having all of the flavor hallmarks I look for in a traditional pozole, only a few of the ingredients put together by the chefs at Don Zorros Molino resemble what is found in an original version of this dish. Shredded beef with hominy swimming in a red chili beef broth provided all the feelings of comfort I was looking for. Another unique factor to this bowl of happiness was found in the house-made pickled onions. A little sweet, a little acidic, a little addictive. Whether enjoying it during a frigid winter afternoon, or after having just received some bad news, Don Zorros Molino has created the perfect food to nourish your soul.  

 

The Drinks and Such—

In the interest of full disclosure, I have never been a fan of tequila or mezcal. Unfortunately, it’s something I’ve never developed a taste for. Thankfully, the organizers of the Bowl of ‘Zole had the foresight to predict this being a possibility and provided a few other options. These included Modelo beer, sparkling water, and … crickets.

Timeless Agave had a display table set up on the patio where you could partake of a shot that was a combination of a mango and tamarind flavored soda that had been stiffened up a bit with their mezcal, served in a shot glass lined with chili powder. But, to be given the shot you had to eat one of the dead, dried crickets that had been placed in a serving bowl next to their drinks. The cocktail was not only delightful by itself, but it was also the perfect accompaniment to cricket.

 

Final Thoughts—

If you’re like me and think you KNOW pozole, the Bowl of ‘Zole Festival will destroy that notion. By taking this humble food and expanding what it can be, these chefs deserve a ton of accolades. Any time someone has the guts to look at something that has a tradition dating back to the pre-Colombian Mesoamerican culture and say “Yeah, I can do it better”—and then find a way to improve it dramatically—it is worthy of attention. If you’re in the Centennial State, treat yourself and stop into one of these restaurants.

That is, only if you’re into delicious, authentic cuisine.