From the first day I arrived in Colorado a few years ago, there has always been one restaurant that keeps making its appearance when I ask people about places to try: the Buckhorn Exchange.

Between the expert craftsmanship displayed in their dishes, and having called the Mile High City home for over 130 years, this constant recommendation really comes as no surprise. After three years, I felt I’d waited long enough and made arrangements to interview their owner and general manager Anthony Perez, and sample some of the greatest meat offerings I would ever experience.

 

The Atmosphere—

Though I learned about the restaurant’s complete history on its website (and how they’ve done everything to keep that historical spirit alive), nothing can prepare you for the feeling you get when you enter Buckhorn Exchange—you legitimately feel like you’ve walked into a place from the mid-19th century.

A place dedicated to carnivores.

On every wall you’ll find a plethora of game mounts. Zebras, buffalo, elk and antelopes were broken up by bird displays that held fowl from all over the world. And according to my amazing server Derek, many of them were older than my great-grandfather.

Some post-Civil War pistols, sabers, and other weaponry were encased in glass and surrounded by pictures; many of which were black-and-white photographs of the very men holding those weapons. Also present were news clippings from publications spanning the decades… oh … and Charlton Heston.

Mixed in with the numerous autographed shots of various celebrities, seated directly behind me, was a clear image of Heston giving me a look of stern approval as I dove into the meat-fest. Celebrities like Heston—along with the large table next to me filled with Japanese tourists—is the main reason why Perez has spent 36 years working for the Exchange.

“[I love] meeting people from all over the world. And when I say all over the world, I mean that. You could be from China, Russia, Australia, wherever, we get them from all over just to come and visit us. For me, it’s a lot of meeting famous people, the atmosphere, history; history is tremendous for us here.”

And nowhere is this historical tradition found more prominently than in the food … kind of.

 

The Food—

The Buckhorn Exchange has found a way to take dishes that are familiar to almost every American and elevate them in new and exciting ways. From recipes spanning centuries to steakhouse classics, at the root of everything is tradition—even when it comes to following “trends.”

According to Perez, “We specialize in a lot of game meats and stuff like that; steak and wild game. So, we have to keep up with [the trends that are] more for our restaurant, [because] we’re not a typical restaurant.” Keeping this in mind, when I asked Perez what he thought I should try, his answer was emphatic. “For me, personally, I think my favorite is the blackened buffalo prime rib with the garlic mashed potatoes and a little side of au jus. It’s tremendously good and one of our top sellers. Our [biggest] appetizer, believe it or not, is the Rocky Mountain Oysters. Those are our top sellers out of everything by far.”

And with that, we’re off to the races …

Appetizers, Soups, and Sides:

Upon his recommendation, I ordered both the Rocky Mountain Oysters and the Duck Breast with Red Raspberry Zinfandel Sauce. On both counts, WOW. The oysters were perfectly breaded and seasoned and as far as the taste is concerned, it’s definitely different but something I enjoyed a lot. Imagine the texture of calamari, but instead of the flavor of the ocean, it’s more of an earthy/meaty flavor. In fact, I think it’s because of the texture that it’s served with a tasty house-made cocktail sauce—my favorite dipping option of the night.

The duck breast was cooked perfectly; a trend I would find in every dish I tried. Crispy skin, juicy meat, and the sauce … THE SAUCE! Beginning sweet before giving way to the sourness that is associated with raspberries, then followed by the wild flavor that can be found in duck, this appetizer was irreproachable.

On the night of my visit, there were two soup options: Navy Bean and Loaded Baked Potato. Since they both sounded amazing, I got a bowl of each. When they arrived, I was informed that the recipe for the soup was from the 1880s and nothing had been changed. For me, it was like an instant trip back into my childhood. My father was raised on a farm in the 1940s and this soup had all the characteristics of what he would make (just a little more highbrow). As hyperbolic as it sounds, this bowl was the essence of history.

The loaded baked potato soup was on another level. Yes, it had all the trademarks found in a traditional loaded potato (bacon, onions, etc.), but by adding additional veggies like carrots and celery, there was such a profound depth of flavor. For the first time in my life, I had a loaded potato soup that tasted like it had been slow simmering all day; another example of tradition elevated.

Since I was going on an almost all-game meat feast, I decided to keep the sides simple and get the Garlic Mashed Potatoes and Baked Beans. The mashed potatoes were some of the most velvety spuds I’ve ever had. They were easily on par with those I’ve had prepared at fine French food events. With that said, to truly enjoy this side, you REALLY have to like garlic. The flavors of both roasted and sauteed preparations of garlic were found in abundance throughout. Thankfully I like garlic, so this dish was a hit.

The baked beans were another example of taking a traditional steakhouse dish and sending it on a completely different trajectory. I don’t know how they did it, but the chefs at Buckhouse have found a way to perfectly blend green chili with the flavor of a traditional campfire bean. Floral notes and heat from the chilis hit you first, but then it quickly transforms into something smoky and sweet. It takes your brain a minute to figure all the flavors out, but once you do, you wonder why nobody has ever thought of it before.

THE MEATS:

Outside of the Blackened Salmon, I had a craving for all the game meats. Elk Tenderloin with Herb Butter, Blackened Buffalo Prime Rib with Au Jus, and Buffalo Tenderloin with a Blueberry Cabernet Sauvignon Sauce were all on the list. And with a full belly and a huge grin, I can say that none of them were a disappointment.

In each case, the meat was tender, juicy, and at the perfect temperature. The elk tenderloin and its herb sauce were the perfect companion to the garlic mashed potatoes. And the blackened salmon was bursting with flavor. However, I have to admit that while I did enjoy the elk and the salmon, they both took a backseat to the two buffalo dishes.

Surprisingly, I wasn’t expecting the buffalo tenderloin to even be an option as it was an off-the-menu special. When I asked Perez about these kinds of options, he said, “We usually will run something for New Year’s Eve and Valentine’s Day—then we have a different kind of menu because we add lobster and big shrimp and different things like that. But, for the most part, we specialize in the steak meats and game for the rest of the year.”

The buffalo tenderloin with blueberry wine sauce more than proved it was my lucky day. This dish is utterly mind-blowing. The first thing you experience is a blueberry that has zero sweetness. In fact, without the sweetness, you realize the fruit has a strong umami flavor. This flavor blends with the wine and then the wild overtones of the buffalo come front-and-center. The taste combination found on this plate is one I have honestly never experienced in my life and one that I will never forget.

The blackened buffalo prime rib was just as excellent. With a familiar salty/peppery crust leading the way, the flavor of buffalo cut through and shone like a star. Between the cook on the meat and the delicious au jus, every bite was a literal flavor explosion. Sadly, I think this prime rib may have ruined every other beef-based rib I’ll have in the future.

 

Final Thoughts—

There is a reason the Buckhorn Exchange has lasted more than 130 years. Yes, it’s a historical landmark that carries its entire lifespan throughout its structure. And yes, both the food and staff are second to none. However, though none of those elements on their own could create a legacy as strong as the one the Buckhorn Exchange has forged, when you put them all together, they create a Western dynasty.